Subtitles: WDR mediagroup digital
GmbH on behalf of the WDR Silvio Nickol gets fresh goods. The German is awarded with 2 Michelin stars
one of the best chefs in Austria. Three has no one there yet. Mini kohlrabi, no. Are they only harvested earlier, or
is that a special breed? Nah, that’s
probably harvested earlier. But they’re beautiful. Do they only look good
or do they taste good? They taste good, too. Did you ever take mini kiwi?
They’re mini kiwi. Where did they come from? From him. He breeds them. You can eat them with the skin on. You just take them like that. This one off. Just eat.
– Take a bite. I ate it whole,
because it’s so delicious. Is this one of the highlights
working days to shop here? Every second of the day
is a highlight. Scallops, fresh herbs,
when we’re supplied with fish, anything and everything. You’ve been working all day.
only variety and I keep seeing new things,
and it’s fun. For 5 years Silvio has been
Nickol chef at Palais Coburg. The Viennese call it
the asparagus castle. Because of the many columns
at the front. He works there too,
in the service of the restaurant. Daniel Gahler still has a few
Hours Time until start of duty. His first path leads
to his favorite cafe, Lilette’s. He’s 25 years old.
the professional path to becoming a sommelier. He’ll have to deal with
Know how to drink without alcohol. smoothies
are all the rage right now. You think it’ll pass,
or will that stay? That, I think, stays for now. Most of them get away completely
of this fast food. They want more and more the good, good burgers,
good juices, good products. That’s more likely to increase,
than to flatten it. There’s a toilet at Lilette’s.
The boss’s name is Hernán. You have a
totally fascinating story. They’re from South America,
are a student, are starting a coffee company here. and then you make
I’m gonna open up this dump, too. How do you manage all this? It’s been a long time. I was in the hospital 10 years ago.
came to Austria. First of all
I wanted to study. But of course
I always had to work, to finance this. That’s how we came up with the idea,
to start a company. Are you still a student then?
– Yes, it is. I intend to, perhaps.
within the next few years to get through my studies. Or at least with the Master. Maybe I’ll get on with it.
I like studying very much. Daniel is going to give us
a few of his, mostly culinary, Show your favourite places. His place of work,
the Palais Coburg, has only 34 suites, no rooms. That’s what makes it
probably the most luxurious hotel in Vienna. * Music * Also a pool high under the roof
doesn’t have every big city hotel. And then there’s the
the staterooms. * Music * Prince Ferdinand of Coburg-Gotha, a German general in service
of the Austrian emperor, built the palace in 1840. Later, I’ll live here too.
his daughter-in-law, one sister
of the King of France. Hence the French lily
in the coat of arms. Right across from the Saxon. And it’s here, of all places.
Born in Saxony, Silvio Nickol. As chief
of a young team of techno fans. The music’s on here,
until the evening service starts. In the morning, 30 kilograms of Norwegian
Scallops arrived. Dipped splendid specimens, fresh from the living
and pretty labor-intensive. Why is it important to you,
to do something like that yourself? In her league as a 2-star chef.
you could delegate something like that. You also have to
I’ll delegate a lot of things. That’s what I’d like
I won’t let you take it. Even standing in the kitchen and prepare the things.
with the team. I’m a product fetishist. There’s nothing more beautiful,
than process things like that. Not just to cause,
but also to process. You’re also part of the team,
so you’re in the kitchen, too. So you’re not interested in anything.
too bad what’s happening here? Two weeks ago.
I was standing at the sink, because the dishwasher was in the pool. You can’t
I’m not too sorry for any of this. You have to live it. Then the employees know too,
how it works, how to do it. Silvio Nickol maintains the
leadership style based on partnership. If you have a good idea,
and I want you to bring it in. That motivates and binds. Daniel Gahler,
the waiter and the boy’s sommelier, is on his culinary tour
arrived at Nascha’s. A brand-new shreddeless
Zone in the heart of the city. He’ll get reinforcements from his
Austrian colleagues Clemens. He hasn’t had breakfast yet,
but it’s pretty powerful. Is this continuing vocational training
for both of you? Training? It is. Absolutely. You have to bake beef
you’ve tried here. I have a veal boiled beef
I haven’t eaten here yet. That’s what Clemens will say afterwards,
as it is. Sous-vide cooked? Yeah, not classic like usual. Bon appetit. Don’t let it
get cold. – Thank you. I’ll take care of it. Vienna has meanwhile become rich in such
innovative restaurant concepts beyond Beiselromantik
and frozen classical music. Here you often see Viennese,
who are going to eat here. Recently even the guest who said
you can have a good meal here. self
the in-house patisserie goods look different
than the old-fashioned pastries. Our Paris selection. With a slightly Austrian accent.
– Okay. (laughs) Started
of a small poppy-seed cake with a white chocolate mousse
and raspberries. – Yes, it is. The whole thing in a larger version,
also white chocolate mousse. Raspberries on an almond base. An exclusively
from pistachio base and mousse produced large praline
with blackberries. Silvio Nickol is taking us with him.
a very special supplier. Eishken Estate is the name of the company
at the gates of the city. His scallops, dipped in water.
come from here. He is among the customers with his
very special demands an exotic. The main turnover
is attributable to a different clientele. Fish without scales, without head,
without bones is nothing for you? That’s right. We like best to have the animals at the
piece. They could be scaled. Occasionally
we still need the sheds, then they come unscaled. But we like best
the biggest fish and best of all in one piece. Cooks like him also buy
just live lobsters, fit oysters and mussels
as fresh as possible. Here they come from a plant,
simulating ebb and flow. It holds oysters and clams.
active and healthy. Alexandra Aibler
has practically grown up with fish. That’s where she’s from. Now she’s retiring.
That shows she’s alive. This is a totally complicated
plant. Where’d you get this? You can only build it yourself.
You can buy the pools. And the rest
is own construction and experience. We have a very good team
to professionals, electricians and installers,
that help us implement them. Do they love you for it?
– Not really. But they get one every time.
good fish when they get there. That started when you were a kid. A young girl
usually has I don’t enjoy fish and mussels.
– I’m different. Fish and seafood are also available perhaps the hottest
Restaurant of the city in the center. It’s Mochi. The bid is
a creatively Europeanized variant of Japanese cuisine. Most of the time here
to not get a table. That’s why Daniel and Clemens are attracted, the two young service employees
of Silvio Nickol, in the cheap offshoots
across the street. To Spicy Salmon Roll
and homemade ginger ale. As pleasure professionals the two are just as curious
how quality-conscious. And don’t go
culinary adventure out of the way. You didn’t buy any mochis.
– No. I do. Which do you want,
Chocolate, pumpkin or coconut? I’ll try some pumpkin.
– Pumpkin. – Thank you very much, sir. Have you ever eaten these? Yeah, I’ve eaten them before.
They’re very solid. You know, that in Japan there are regular
Dead gives after Mochi pleasure? Oh, yeah?
– Nah, I didn’t. If they’re not chewed enough, the people
in the esophagus. It has to be there every year.
there have been several deaths. All right, chew. I think there’s a lot of people in Japan every year more Mochi deaths
than puffer-fish dead. I think so.
You can tell when you’re eating. It went well again.
– Good chewing, yeah. In Tian, where Silvio Nickol had lunch.
If you eat anything, there’s no fish. It’s one of only 2 Michelin-
best vegetarian restaurants in Europe. In the rooms of a
former princely riding stable Paul Ivic cooks
beyond vegetarian clichés. And that of all things
in the meat capital Vienna. He doesn’t even try, to rebuild Schnitzel with Tofu or
to create vegetarian burgers. There used to be guests,
who didn’t know, that there is a vegetarian restaurant
in Vienna, who’ve lost their way to you? There was. I think the most interesting encounter
was with an American woman. She ordered eight courses,
and we’re totally surprised, that somebody would
8 courses times from us wants. Because I was interested,
I went out and asked, how was the vegetarian food? And her: What? Vegetarian? Then she’s got
I thought about it and said: What the fuck, no fish, no meat? Then I knew,
we’re on the right track. She was so happy. With Silvio Nickol
he’s a friend now. The two visit each other
each other from time to time. Private
and also in their restaurants. Did you pay attention to the prices? Here costs the ten-course menu
145 euros. That’s cheap. Yes? At the cost of goods? Actually, it should be
cost more when using the goods. Many underestimate the
in vegetarian cuisine. A lot of people think
Vegetables aren’t that expensive. But to make certain essences
to make from vegetables, you usually even need
more use and material for sauces, as if you
I’d work with meat. But that’s what you can understand, when you’re
more intensively. Are you a vegetarian yourself? Am I a vegetarian myself? No, then I’d have to go to
My mama’s bacon dumplings. and the Sarma of my dad.
I’ll do without you. I couldn’t do that.
I’m a conscious man of pleasure. Also Sachertorte
Paul Ivic has in the program, but not in the original,
but deconstructed. “Sacher uprooted,” he calls it. The day goes unvegetarian
from Silvio Nickol. It draws him
to his game supplier. He used to work in the car industry, but for 11 years.
he breeds fallow deer: Because at the time his daughter was 4.
was crazy about deer and fawns. Tasting the difference between cultivated
and wild game? There are differences, yes. But I don’t feel
sustainability, even with the animals. How they’re raised,
how they get shot. If they have stress,
I don’t want to have any stress. Of course the producers
of trust, that you know where it’s coming from. The type of origin simple. I have the source of supply, the
Hannes. It couldn’t be better. Did you have to learn what that’s like
with self-reared game? We’ve been through all this.
of time itself. The posture, the feeding,
the removal of the animals, the slaughter, the cutting. Now we are
an equivalent partner for gastronomy,
and we’re very happy about that. There are no textbooks?
– There are already textbooks. You don’t always have to believe everything,
what’s in textbooks. Success with the animals
proves us right. We don’t need a vet anymore,
no concentrated feed, no vaccinations. We have healthy animals. It’s all a matter of nutrition. The dismantling has also
Hannes Wiesmayer himself. In the past.
Back and clubs asked, that’s fortunately changed. “Nose to tail” is the trend. Meanwhile, it’s that we’re
also the innards especially in Vienna, where the innards’ kitchen
has a high value, to process these as well. There’s the deerbeuscherl,
the stag’s tongue, stag’s heart, the liver’s a hell of a thing. Meanwhile
we’ve gone this far, that we also
the deer brain. I had a few years ago.
Rooster combs on it. You’ve seen on the plates where
they got out, which it is. 80% of the guests
they got involved. They tried it and found it
extremely impressive, how good this can taste. Who is equal to stag
I want to try at the producer’s: Hannes Wiesmayer offers simple dishes
directly from his court kitchen. With Veganista
on the outskirts of Josefstadt there’s pretty much the opposite. Vegan ice cream. Daniel and Clemens love it.
No matter what time of year. Daniel,
You’re not a vegan at all. Why are you
into a vegan ice cream joint? You can’t say that like that.
That’s not a problem. The main thing is that it tastes good. I think it’s really great. I discovered this in the summer.
and I’ve been here two, three times since then. The ice cream tastes very good. And he’s healthy too.
There’s always a lot of fruit in it. Just like
with very good Italians. You just
a different taste. It’s partly
with oat milk or soy milk. As long as it tastes good.
shouldn’t you support that? When you think of vegan ice cream.
automatically first on water ice. Exactly.
that doesn’t have cream components in it. But if you’re here
I’ve had ice cream for a long time, there you can
completely convinced of the opposite. You’re only doing this because
veganism is in vogue? – No, I’m not. For us it was
a personal choice. We’ve been vegan for a long time,
my sister and I. And they missed it so much that
you get good, creamy ice cream. Because you didn’t get it anywhere,
we said, we’ll do it ourselves.
– Was it difficult? In the beginning it was difficult,
because you’re doing something new. Meanwhile, once you’re
and then it’s over. You wanna tell me how to do it?
or is that a trade secret? We won’t tell you, but… But?
Can’t I tickle anything? We use only the best
Ingredients. That’s the most important thing. You can taste that, too. We use orange juice, for example,
we’ll push it ourselves. Do as much as you can yourself. The consequence of success: Susanna Paller has her veganista
open even in winter. Silvio Nickol
finds relaxation with that, which he sees all day anyway. No, not wife Simone,
but cooks at work. Do you have the impression
that Silvio can shut down, when he’s having dinner with you? Or does he look with one eye
always in the kitchen, what his colleagues are doing? He can really switch off. You watch the whole day in the
Kitchen, see cooks all day long. Now go to a restaurant.
and there you see cooks again. That’s relaxation for me.
Cooking is relaxation for me. Watching someone, by the way.
That’s why I like the atmosphere. That’s relaxation for me. Actually, the people are
in the stress of the kitchen. I’m just sitting here with my friends.
Woman, but it’s relaxation. Good conversation, the kitchen area.
You almost feel at home. Speaking of home. You’re the first real Viennese,
that we met here. What’s the matter
Your family said so, when you arrived with a Piefke? This is
a very funny story. When I met Silvio, shortly after that.
I called home. And my father says, “What is this?
What does he do? So I say, “Papa, he’s German. And the first reaction was real:
For God’s sake. Does it have to be a German? Meanwhile, they love each other hot,
there’s no other way to put it. Accordingly
it worked out pretty well. A contribution to international understanding,
you’re doing here? – Absolutely. Cheers. Kissing mouth of all things
is the restaurant of your choice. From the open kitchen
there are two styles. Simple but good bistro food for culinary beginners
tight-packed and additionally ambitious
Top kitchen for up to 60 people. Both wear each other out, which I’m sure
also because of the young ambience. For young sommelier Daniel Gahler stand in his spare time
Drinks in the foreground. He brings friends
right above the bar, in the original rooms
of the Hotel Rathaus Wein & Design. Each is assigned to a different
Austrian top winery are assigned to the As for the contents of the mini wine bar
and also from the interior. This is a wine hotel. Feel
Is that why you’re here? Absolutely. I’ve got my own
I haven’t spent the night here yet. But a good friend of mine.
from Germany. He’s also a sommelier himself. Of course, he’s been
I’m very comfortable here. Prices from the room
are also justified for that, what’s on offer here. That’s why
I decided to. He was very pleased, because he
didn’t know it was. As sommelier
of course it’s beautiful. His place of work,
the Palais Coburg, is also
a paradise for wine lovers. If they
have the necessary financial strength. The city palace stands directly
on the old casemates of the city. And they offer plenty of space right
for several wine treasuries. Champagne, for example, is stored in
a centuries-old ice cellar. And next door there’s a
of the largest collections of sweet wines of the famous Chateau d’Yquem. Over 100 vintages
are fully represented here. In the kitchen is the time
for loud techno music now over. The Restaurant
is, as so often, fully booked. Last works,
before the guests arrive. Punctual as every evening the service meeting
with all the cooks and waiters. How many vegetarians do we have?
Markus? – Six times. What’s important
keep calm tonight. Keep control. Announce loud.
We got Foodrunner back. Always announce loudly, then they know
where they need to go. If a mistake happens today,
then Poland is open. Real concentration,
Keep calm, that’ll work. Great, if there’s nothing else:
Meal and good service. Thank you. I’ll take care of it. Hardly anybody else wants
working in gastronomy. Especially not in service.
Why do you want it? I don’t know, I don’t know.
That’s my calling. My father’s a cook,
my uncle’s a cook. I myself did the training.
made as a hotel specialist and I noticed,
that service is more mine. Was after
in a one-star operation, then in a 3-star operation,
and I have to say, It’s fun. It’ll stay that way. In the restaurant
now only the guests are missing. The preparations are in place,
the mis en place. The herb butter is always added to the
last second freshly opened. Anyone who comes to Silvio Nickol experiences
the great opera on the plate. Twice seven-speed. Liver, clam. After that, a ray,
2 mushrooms, 2 pigs, 2 pre, one quince, 2 chocolates
and 2 petit fours with cake. Yes.
– Yes, it is. The card says at
Silvio Nickol always just a menu. The principle applies to you: Eaten
what’s on the table becomes what it is. Like home, right? Don’t rain
and some guests say, you would like more choice? On the contrary. Most guests,
who come to eat with us are happy, that we’re going with this concept. The guest will be surprised. He’s just giving his
Incompatibilities, allergies to and says how many portions
and how many corridors he wants. and then gives himself up
completely in our hands. He’s enjoying it to the fullest, because that’s what happens in every gear.
is a surprise. What do I get?
Which wine is served with it? That’s what makes our experience so special. Rotary evaporators, distillers,
Paco-Jets, all the bells and whistles modern high performance kitchens
knows Silvio Nickol. But he trusts more
on proven techniques. Even if all the guests
all of a sudden, in the kitchen it stays quiet. Daniel Gahler now has
one gig at a time. All right, gentlemen.
Beautiful evening. aperitif
is right with you? We’re slurping all the time.
– Perfect. Perfect. May the sommelier come to you
come with the big wine list? Or else we’ll have
the wine accompaniment, so 9 different glasses of wine. Prepare the mussel once
in seven, Vera. Till he found scallops.
to perfection, Silvio Nickol is a
a long culinary journey. My first attempts
I started when I was 7 years old. What the hell was that?
– Carrot salad for my brother. My mother went to work,
my brother was hungry. Then I have
started trying. So are the first attempts
came together. The most important professional station
of his life was the Schwarzwaldstube
in Baiersbronn. You’ve spent several years
at Harald Wohlfahrt. Can you still tell that from your kitchen? How shall I put it? Yeah, I do, actually. I learned most of it from him. From craftsmanship to perfection
it’ll drag on to the end. It’s a thing you don’t forget. Was it hard to have your own
to develop your own handwriting? That took a while. A lot has happened
with the plates, until the time came,
as it is now. That’s for sure
nor the standstill. I’m sure there’s more,
and there are more changes coming. You want
to keep working on himself. How can you change things
season to taste, perform, arrange? Textures. It’s all open. There are no fixed things,
that are written. In the restaurant
we’re gonna go gang by gang now. In the next corridor for you we’ve got scallops.
with tapioca, tomatillo and broccoli. We’ve got some foam for that.
of the scallop. Have a good time. Here you go. Except the scallop shell
there’s still all this here today: Duck liver with peanut,
Coffee and a carrot ice cream. Skate wings with pumpkin,
Fennel and grapefruit. Mushrooms with artichokes,
Parsley and French fries souflées. Pork with eggplant,
Leek and miso. saddle of venison
by Hannes Wiesmayer with buckwheat,
Sea buckthorn and parsley roots. Blue cheese with passion fruit,
Plum and chestnut. gooseberry
with yeast and mascarpone. Quince with yoghurt and saffron, and the big chocolate dessert
with Fragolino grapes and rosehip. We are simply thrilled
about the creations he delivers. If he had anything to do with this.
can’t do any better? No. We visit pubs of this kind
not daily, not weekly, but from time to time. That would be presumptuous to say,
he could have done something better. He’s doing great. But the chef
is not alone. On it
Silvio Nickol’s greatest value. The time of sole determination
in top gastronomy is long gone, he says. Creativity lies not only in
It’s me, it’s the whole team. The employees
can get involved, have ideas, have suggestions. Then the sample is cooked,
and then we’ll see, what we’ve learned from the court
out of this. If it’s perfect,
if it needs to be worked out. This is how each team member feels
as part of the whole. Every employee can
if he has an idea, what fits the season
and what else we can get inside. His evening ends extremely late tonight. Which is not all, that he alone had 4 desserts
in the program. Here you go.
– Thank you very much, sir. He always stays until the last guest
has finally gotten up. Good night. Good night.
– Happy birthday. Thank you so much for coming.
– Goodbye. Goodbye. Goodbye. Goodbye. This may take a while. These two have it in them.
until half past 2:00 in the morning. Goodbye. Daniel Gahler collects
again plenty of overtime. That also belongs
for people in the hotel. Great, huh?
– Have a nice evening. Copyright WDR 2016